This is an at-a-glance review of the September 2006 Tangential Turkey Tour trip.

Thurs., Sept. 7:

Most of the group arrived on the same flight in the early evening. We took a van to the hotel, unloaded and had a quick but satisfying dinner. We ate at my favorite "locanta" in Sultanahmet - outdoors in a lovely setting along the tram tracks. Fast food is delicious in Turkey and locantas are a major reason. They serve basic comfort food that is prepared in large quantities, ready to eat. You select from a variety of entrees that are viewable up close. Just point and they heap traditional Turkish food on your plate.

After dinner we had an orientation and much needed sleep.

Friday, Sept. 8:

Clara and I arrived in Istanbul a week early to do advance work. We kept some openings in the schedule to allow for serendipitous happenings. One such chance encounter was meeting one of Istanbul's most famous architects. He is a community activist who is on a mission to preserve landmark sites in the Galata neighborhood by converting them into music and other cultural venues.

We decided he'd be a perfect person to provide a Galata tour. He's an original inhabitant and was expert at guiding us through the historic Genoese neighborhood.

Next we visited my favorite small mosque - the Rustem Pasa with breathtakingly gorgeous tiles.

Last we visited the Egyptian (Spice) Bazaar before heading back to the hotel.

Speaking of serendipitous events, I spotted a mesmerizing street musician singing near the exit of Istanbul's airport when I first arrived. I invited her to perform for our group this night. Neriman sung in Turkish, Kurdish, Laz and Arabic. She was a cross between Souad Massi and Sabahat Akkiraz...Neriman loved performing for us as much as we dug her. It was a beautiful night.

Then the heartiest among us caught the top Turkish Roma (Gypsy) clarinetist Salim Sessler in a small club in Istanbul. This was a surprise performance that few knew about it. A friend of mine who studies with Salim called to let me know. Those who saw "Crossing the Bridge: The Sound of Istanbul" know how special Salim is.

Saturday Sept. 9: The morning was spent at the one and only Aya Sofya.

The evening music performance was a highlight for many. A Sufi concert at the home of the Erdemsel Brothers with dinner prepared by their mother. Sinan and Faruk are also members of the Turkish Historical Music Ensemble, a group founded by the Turkish Ministry of Culture and Tourism to preserve ancient Ottoman music.

Sunday, Sept. 10: We spent four hours exploring Topkapi Palace including the unforgettable harem.

Later we enjoyed a performance doubleheader:

Whirling Dervishes Performance at the Galata Mevlevihanesi.

Followed by concert with vocalist and violinist Mine Gecili. Her ensemble included qanun, oud and percussion.

Monday, Sept. 11: We cruised the Bosphorus under threat of rain. (Thanks Christopher for the conviction) . The Gods prevailed and it was lovely and not crowded.

The evening provided a musical a coup - Necati Çelik performed a private concert for the Tangential 15 at our hotel overlooking Aya Sofya and the Blue Mosque. Necati is perhaps the finest Ottoman styled classical oudist in all of Turkey. It was like having Segovia playing a few feet from us. Amazing.

Tues., Sept 12:

The T15 visited an instrument shop museum of sorts - the home of the top traditional instrument builder in Istanbul.

A triple option ensued as some went to museums, most went shopping with Clara (including a wondrous hat shop) and I went to the record company complex with "Kabobby" who scored big.

After a lovely fish dinner with Roma musicians we took a midnight flight to the other-worldly geological wonderland of Cappadocia

Wed., Sept. 13:

On this day we met our guide for the rest of the trip - Mustafa who everyone adored.

Each day had several activities. Next year we'll lessen the load a bit and provide more free time.

After a terrific late breakfast we took our mini-bus to Kaymakli Underground City

Other highlights included hiking in Monks Valley and then Zelve where the group showed its agility climbing through a narrow tunnel in cave.

Thurs., Sept. 14:

Our first stop was Nar Lake (Volcanic Crater Lake) where I foolishly raced our tour guide and was left in the dust.

We then hiked 3.5 km in the picturesque Ihlara Valley which was a favorite retreat of Byzantine monks. The setting couldn't be better with a stream leading the way amid a gorgeous canyon.

We ate a sumptuous lunch on a float in the middle of the river - it was the laziest, most relaxing lunch in memory.

Next we climbed among the caves of the Selime Monastery.

The early evening was spent at a carpet presentation and a dinner catered for us at our hotel.

I realized my oft injured knees and legs were healed when I danced with birthday girl Alexandra and did the Dore 'free-form get down to my knees shake and bake" without a problem. (We danced to Tinariwen.)

Fri., Sept. 15:

At 5:15 am Tanya was the sole member of our group to take the exhilarating Balloon Tour

Our first stop was the former Greek village of Mustafapasa where most went shopping at a cool place which featured clothing, jewelry and all sorts of knick-knacks.

Toni, Carol and me got invited into a local's home after Toni gave the kids balloons and did tricks with them. The family gave Toni and Carol gifts. This is the anti-tour at its best. And Toni was amazing at connecting with locals everywhere.

We decided that we had done enough hiking the two days before and travelled to Hacibektas museum. Hacibektas inspired a religious and political following the blended aspects of Islam (both Sunni and Shite) with Orthodox Christianity. The Bektasi dervishes attained considerable influence in Ottoman times.

Most relaxed back at the hotel although a few group members attended a pottery presentation in Avanos - one of the centers for pottery making in Turkey.

The evening was the much anticipated Cave Concert with the Tangential Turkey Ensemble and various regional artists from Cappadocia.

The atmosphere was the story. A cave church from 1000-2000 years ago with rugs and cushions generously laid out by our Cappadocia friends and candles perched on ledges. The locals also came and built a huge bon fire outside and roasted potatoes for all.

Our own Clara Hsu opened up solo and cast a spell with her enchanting poetry and mesmerizing Tibetan singing bowl. Laurie, Toni and Alex joined on percussion and Christopher who restrung a mandolin we located in Goreme, put the finishing touches on the Tangential Turkey Ensemble's performance.

The regional musicians were all balagma (saz) players who also sang. We were treated to three performances with the first one worthy of a recording contract. He was a gem.

We left around midnight but I hear the party may still be going on.

Saturday, Sept 16:

We travelled to Konya and visited the Mevlana Museum on our way to the Lake Region. Konya is home to Rumi's Tomb part of the Mevlana Museum. This is the most revered shrine to Rumi, also known as the Mevlana. He is the Sufi mystic who founded the whirling dervish sect, the Mevlevi, and his writings helped reshape Islamic thought.

We spent a forgettable night in Egirdir but did enjoy a lovely dinner by the lake.

Sunday, Sept 17:

Sunday morning we visited the Yoruk Market. The Yoruk people of the mountain villages come down to load up on winter essentials and bring goats, apples and mountain yogurt to sell.

The yogurt was dessert-like creamy. It was sold in bags. Thanks to Laurie who bought enough to last for a couple of days.

The market was huge and I even bought a new belt and flannel shirt. (Last time I bought a belt was at a market in Athens in 1987.)

By late morning we hit the road for Afyon. This city is seldom on a tour itinerary. It was Ataturk's headquarters prior to the last, decisive battle of the independence war, fought against the Greeks. There are several well-preserved mosques and at prayer time, the calls come from as many as 80 minarets which echo off a fortress made of rock.

The translation of Afyon is "Opium". Afyon produces about 25% of the world's legal opiates. It used to produce about half but the U.S. forced Turkey to lower its production in 1971.

Most of the group revived themselves at the sauna, pool, hamam as we had plenty of free time. Christopher and Nelia have incredible panoramic photo's from a castle located at the top of a huge rock that defines the city. They were the only intrepid ones who walked the 700 steps to the summit on a hot summer-like day.

Monday, Sept 18:

We arose early and left for Pamukkale. Pamukkale is most famous for its white calcium travertines, and the extensive Roman and Byzantine ruins at Hierapolis. The sky was darkly overcast which resulted in magnificent contrast with the white travertine formations. The photo's tell the story.

Our next stop was a surprise to all. No one had heard of Sirince but it turned out to be the most charming village of all. It is hidden high in the mountains and was the perfect retreat for r&r as our journey was hitting the home stretch.

Tuesday, Sept. 19:

Leyla Hill had injured her knee earlier in the trip and had been a trooper throughout. However, it swelled up in Sirince and we dropped her and husband Stephen at a health clinic on the way to Ephesus. Leyla received excellent care and they raved about the efficiency of the Turkish health system.

Meanwhile we were blessed with another excellent guide for Ephesus named Tex. A good guide makes a world of difference and Tex made the 3 hour tour of Ephesus a stunning memory. Alex who is an opera singer, entered the Tangential history books treating the Roman Gods to a singing performance at the Great Theatre. It accommodates 25,000 and is still active. The best part is it has perfect acoustics. You could hear Alex's voice loud and clear with no amplification from anywhere in the Great Theatre.

By late afternoon we travelled to our final stop outside of Istanbul - up the Aegean coastline to Assos. This was the most isolated and tranquil setting of any hotel we stayed. The Aegean was a short stroll from our rooms and we had it to ourselves. Many in the group refreshed with a morning swim the following day.

Wed., September 20:

After Assos we started the long ride back to Istanbul. When it was time to cross the Dardanelles by ferry we had about a 15 minute wait. I told all to remain on the bus. It was a beautiful warm day. The weather was one of the many stars on the trip as it was spectacular throughout.

One of my simple pleasures in Turkey is eating dried figs, apricots and having pistachio flavored on many desserts. So while waiting on the ferry and hearing two separate requests for pistachio ice cream and bravely (foolishly?) got off the bus to retrieve some pistachio ice cream for our deserving group. The first place I visited had none but insisted I get a different flavor. But I knew better. Nothing but the best for my group!

He directed me to another street corner. No ice cream.

Okay.

Time to cut my losses and return to the ferry.

As I returned to the pier I saw a ferry leaving the dock and my heart sank to the ground. It couldn't be mine - could it?

Finding no pistachio ice cream was bad enough. No now ferry. Wow!

I caught the next one and fortunately the T15 felt sorry for me and waited on the other side. What a group! Pistachio will never quite mean the same to me ever again.

We arrived in Istanbul late that night after having dinner on the road. Most of the group had a 6am flight home and faced a 3:30 am airport pick-up.

I hung around until 3:30 I bid them a fond farewell.

Fortunately, most of them live in the Bay Area and we'll be having a reunion soon!

These final thoughts are from 2005 Tangential Turkey traveller Steve Basile:

"It was an eye-opening trip. From the first call to prayer I heard at 5am (and five times a day, every day) to the many mosques I visited, I was surrounded with and impressed by Islamic culture. I was forced, by immersion to expand and enlarge my personal definition of Islam and of Muslims. We are so colored here by news accounts that focus only on 'troubles in the Muslim world' and the work of 'Muslim Fundamentalists,' but they are no more representative of Islam than the 'Reverend' Fred Phelps is of Christianity.

I am reminded of what a co-worker told me years ago when I came out to him as a gay man: 'Because of you, I have to redefine what I have always thought 'gay' meant all these years.' So do I have to redefine what Muslim has meant to me all these years, and I can tell you from my experience they are as varied and pleasant a group of people as any I have encountered.

All I can say is visit. Go someplace outside your comfort zone and see what you see, learn what you'll learn, feel what you feel, then decide for yourself.

When I told people I was going to Turkey for vacation, they almost always asked 'Why?' Now I know."