Oct 6-7: Athens
Airport arrival day. We had an orientation and group dinner at an exceptional fish restaurant.
Oct 7:
Our first of five alternative walking tours was led by
Anastasia. She is also a musician and took us to various neighborhoods
including the fascinating and often misunderstood Exarchia neighborhood
where we had a group lunch.
5 minutes into the walking tour, Anastasia and several of our group broke into a circle dance.
Our first of eleven concerts was with the Sokratis Sinopoulos/Yann Keerim Duo at a bohemian theater.
Sokratis Sinopoulos who mesmerized the audience with one continuous
impropvised 90 minute piece with keyboardist Yann Keerin.
Tangents group member Steve Lucas chatting with Yann after the concert..
Oct. 8-10 Chania, Crete:
Oct. 8:
Arrived
by air to picturesque Chania on the island Crete. Today
there was plenty of free time to explore this charming town by a
Venetian harbor.
No clue who this person is but like how I framed the photo. Oct. 9:
Today
we traveled to Falasarna beach where we swam in the crystal
clear turquoise sea. The sand at this beach is extra fine which is
unusual for Greek beaches.
Overlooking Falasarna beach (photo by Carolyn Wrright)
Afterward we journeyed well off the beaten path to an eco-touristic
getaway called Milia.There is one restaurant in this stone village
which prepares its food from what is grown in the nearby surroundings. Even
the raki is homemade.
Ross
Daly and Kelly Thoma performed a private concert back at our
hotel. Ross is acknowledged as the best living master of the
Cretan lyra. They performed for 90 minutes and then engaged us with Q+A
for an additional hour. Importantly, Ross has established schools called
Labyrinth that teach his modal approach to music. Many top global
artists (not just Greek) have studied with Ross and at his
schools.
.
Kelly Thoma and Ross Daly performing during the 2023 Tangenst Greece Muisic Tour.Ewald Detjens: The
concert with Ross Daly and Kelly Thoma in the old Venetian port of
Chania was ethereal. Ross was a gentleman and answered our
questions patiently and with great insight.
Oct. 10:
Tonight
was a rare occasion for locals to witness a free concert with the
riveting Daulute Trio in a packed bar/cafe by the harbor in Chania. Chris
Northcutt returned for a second Tangents Greece Music Tour primarily to
get to see Daulute again and this time videotaped it.
Chris Northcutt focused on Daulute Trio.
Daulute Trio Unleashed Oct 11-12: Athens
Oct 11: We said our goodbyes to Chania and flew back to Athens in the afternoon.
Our
evening concert featured Mode Plagal. Mode Plagal is an original. It
was the first Greek band to blend improvisational jazz, rock, reggae,
African, and more, with traditional Greek roots music. Many bands point
to Mode Plagal as their primary influence. Mode Plagal's guitarist's
primary influences include John Coltrane and Link Wray. Fela Kuti also
had an impact on the band. Actually, they soak up influences from
anywhere and everywhere.
Mode Plagal lifting off during the 2023 Tangents Greece Music Tour. Oct 12:
Our daytime acitivity was guided by Katerina who showed us
the city of Athens through street art. Every artwork we encountered
told a story about the city and its history and Katerina connected the
dots.
Livas Trio treated us to a
fabulous intimate concert fetauring my favorite trio instrumentation:
oud, qanun and percussion. Stasha Vlasuk commented: Epic, transcendent & sublimely danceable music!
Stasha putting her words into action during Livas Trio..
Livas Trio during its 2023 Athens concert
Oct. 13: Thessaloniki
Off
to Thessaloniki by air in time for an alternative walking tour of the
city's history led by my favorite guide, Tassos. Thessaloniki once
belonged almost equally to Jews, Greeks, Ottomans and refugees from
Minor Asia, just to name a few.Tangential Hall-of-Fame guide Tassos
The
evening was a rebetiko night at the legendary Prigipessa
nightclub .Rebetiko is a Greek blues directly linked to song and dance
that initially spread among the urban lower and working-class
populations following the deadly forced population exchange of Muslims
and Christians in Greece and Asia Minor.
Rebetiko house band at Priggpessa.
Oct 14-16: Palaios Panteleimonas
Oct. 14:
This
was a jam packed day. Tassos took us on a morning rebetiko tour
highlighted by a visit to the imposing Yedi Kule (prison) where
rebetiko was a lifeline for prisoners.
Our
comfy Tangents bus took over for the next few days as we traveled
across Greece. We spent the next 3 nights in the restored
traditional mountain village, Palaios Panteleimonas (population
22) which dates to the end of the 14th century. It has stunning views
and various group members took off on their own for nature walking.
We
were treated to two magical performances at the outdoor Roman styled
amphitheater. The first night was the Epsilon & Theta Project
featuring vocalist Elsa Mouratido.
Epsilon & Theta Project featuring Elsa Mouratido
Oct 15:
Many
group members marvelled not only at the natural beauty of Panteleimonas
but the otherwordly hotel we had to ourselves.
Virginia Leskiowski: This
tour produces delightful surprises everyday, musically, geographically
and in our accomodations. We are currently staying in a mountaintop art
gallery/lodge, with breathtaking views. A few of us tour-goers
commented yesterday, "We can't believe we are staying here. It is like
a fairytale." Unforgettable experience!
Note: See the photo at the header of the itineray page.
That
evening we saw local favorites Iliodromio at the amphitheater. Both
concerts in this tiny mountain village were free for the locals. Many
came from Thessaloniki and Katerini to enjoy these rare treats.
Half of the Iliodromio octet shown here performing at the amphitheater.
Enthusiastic appaluse for Illiodromio.
Oct 16:
We
were treated to a tour of the village. Many fell in love with a
charismatic wife and husband run jewelery shop filled with unusual
gems.I bought my partner Clara an aquamarine birthstone necklace.Oct. 17: Meteora-Metsovo-IoanninaWe
traveled west to the Ottoman influenced city Ioannina but stopped at
one of the wonders of the world, Meteora along the way, as well as the
distinctive mountain village Metsovo.
Meteora is a series of
monasteries seemingly suspended from the heavens. This was the only day
of the trip that had rain and fog so visibility was limited. Metsovo
was our destination for lunch. Our group took to resaurant owner
Heidi, who has an electric personality. Heidi with Liz and Eula.
Oct. 18-20 Ioannina:
Oct. 18
Free day to explore Ioannina which is surrounded by a lake and mountains.
We spent three nights in Ioannina. Our hotel was a minute from the Ioannina castle which dates to Ottoman times.
Ioannina Castle
Note:
The original plan was to spend two nights in a charming mountain
village in Pelion and two nights each in Palaios Panteleimonas and
Ioannina. A few weeks prior to the tour, Pelion was ravished by
biblically intense rains (more rain in one day than London recevies in
a year). Pelion became inaccessible so the itinerary was adjusted in
advance accordingly. Pelion is back on the itinerary for the October,
2024 tour.
Oct. 19:
Our
evening concert was with Ala Rum featuring violinist Sotiris Katsouras.
This region is known as Epirus. Its music is most identified with
the clarinet. That has been the case for only the last 100 years or so.
The violin preceded it as the lead instrument in Epirotic music dating
back to Ottoman times. Ala Rum recaptures the sound of Ottoman era
Epirus with violin and vocalist Papakostas, who transported us
back 200 years.Sotiris Katsouras of Ala Rum.
Sotiris holding court after the concert with L-R: Marlene, Jeannie, Barb and Mike.
Oct. 20:
We traveled north for about an hour to the rugged Pindos Mountains, close to the Albanian
border. The region is called Zagorohoria - 46 villages clustered
throughout the
mountain range. About half were bombed by the Nazis and as far as I
know never returned to its normal population. Our bus driver, Kostas,
expertly navigated hairpin turns as we ascended
to picturesque Papigo.We explored the hilly village and
had a group lunch at an outdoor farm to table eatery. The trout came
from a nearby creek and the vegetables were grown on their land.Our satiated group in the mountain village Papigo.
We flew back to Athens in the evening.
Oct. 21-23 Athens:
Oct. 21:
Today we had a 4 hour guided tour of the Acropolis and Acropolis museum. The group adored our guide, Alex. Alex and his merry Acropolis mates.
St.
Paul's Anglican Church in Athens was the sold out setting for our
concert with singer Katerina Papadopoulou and her band Notio Toxo.
Katerina Papadopoulou and Notio Toxo jammimg on the church stage.
Stasha Vasluk: Katerina
was a glimpse of history, an angelic voice from a gentler era. Her
loving passion was present in every note. She guided us, through
song, from haunting traditional beginnings to the Greek diaspora of an
immigrant’s tarantella.
Dore, Katerina Papadopoulou and Chris Northcutt post concert.
Oct. 22:
Our
eleventh and final concert was at my favorite tiny taverna in Athens.
Banda Jovanica settled into a corner and played their hearts out for
our adoring group. It may be the only Greek band led by a cimbalom,
common in Hungarian and Romanian folk music. Accordionist/Vocalist
Haroula
Tsalpara deserves hero mention for playing two daytime gigs and then
partying with us.
Haroula
Tsalpara of Banda Jovanica
Klearhos Korkovewlos (cimbalom) and Yiannis Niarhos (guitar) playing as
L-R Eula, Vicky and Jeannie get into it.
Oct. 23: Back to Reality
Time to shut the lights and return to reality.
Funky wood carved lamp in my room in Palaios Panteleimonas.
I'm
proud to create a music and cultural experience that no only enrich the
lives of Tangents travelers but benefit artists, venues and locals in
Greece.
I marvel at how Tangents tour groups become family which enhances the overall experience for all.
Jean Daskais: To
go to Greece with Dore is to embark on a moveable feast of music,
people and places made possible by his long and loving relationship
with the musicians, guides, hoteliers, artists who share their gifts
from the heart each day.
Transforming lives through music and travel,
Tangents Greece Music Tours
Next One: Oct. 4-21, 2024
Email tangentsgreecetour@gmail.com